TURKMENISTAN SEPT 27 2015

September 27, 2015

Another night of stomach pain/issues. I'm so tired of feeling bad - 4 days now.

We did have a reprieve from such early days but I had set my alarm for pm instead of am. So...I awakened at 9:15 for our 10am meet up,with the guide, I was drained from the lack of food staying in my body and the soreness of my belly. I soldiered on...what are you going to do.

Everyone else was bright eyed and energetic, I was jealous as this was not my normal speed.

We stopped at a market for me to get some kefir in an attempt to feel better. We set out for our day. First up was a very important mosque.

Ertogrul Gazy Moaque is a mosque in Ashgabat, Turkmenistan. It honors Ertuğrul, the father of Osman I, the founder of the Ottoman Empire. It is a prominent landmark in Ashgabat with its four minarets and central dome and has a lavish interior decoration with fine stained glass windows. The mosque was inaugurated in 1998 and this white marbled building is reminiscent of the Blue Mosque of Istanbul. The mosque accommodates up to 5,000 Muslims, but actually has few worshipers because of several accidental deaths during its construction.

Now off to the races, literally. We visited Bedev Hippodrome and experienced Akhalteke horse racing. The Turkmen love horse racing and they behaved like American football or European soccer. The group had seats with a good view of the track. It was quite dramatic as people were served snacks and some drinks also. No betting is allowed though so, this is truly about the sport.

After the race we went driving around the city. Everywhere you look crazy white marble buildings Story Chinese marble until wealth accumulation, post natural gas discovery became carrara clad. Most of the residential buildings have 50% to 60 percent occupancy. There are whole multi acres residential areas under development with no foreseeable tenants. It’s possible that the government will open up the option of foreign purchase.

There are many new, large, Carrara clad buildings that have been built for the different ministries of Turkmenistan. They site empty as the ministries haven’t moved in. The buildings just sit there. The whole country is odd. So much just doesn’t make sense but…it is their world, not mine. I am the visitor.

The number of Carrara clad buildings had put Ashgabat in the Guinness book of world records.

Arch of Neutrality is also something odd and excessive at the same time. The three-legged arch, which became known locally as "The Tripod", 246 ft tall and was built in 1998 on the orders of Turkmenistan's President Saparmurat Niyazov to commemorate the country's official position of neutrality. It cost $12 million to construct. The monument was topped by a 39 ft tall gold-plated statue of Niyazov which rotated to always face the sun. The arch was located in central Ashgabat where it dominated the skyline, being taller than the nearby Presidential Palace. The statue was illuminated at night. The arch featured a panoramic viewing platform which was a popular attraction for visitors.

On 18 January 2010 Niyazov's successor as president, Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow, signed a decree to begin work on dismantling and moving the arch. There were reports that the arch would be dismantled as early as 2008, but the president did not approve the move until 2010.The dismantling was officially said to be a move to improve urban design in Ashgabat but is seen as part of Berdimuhamedow's campaign to remove the excesses of the personality cult that Niyazov had created in his two decades at the head of one of the world's most authoritarian regimes.

Niyazov also named cities and airports after himself, ordered the building of an ice palace and a 130 ft tall pyramid, but the gold-plated statue has been described as the most notorious symbol of his legacy.

Berdimuhamedow has replaced the arch with a 312 ft tall "Monument to Neutrality" which is located in the suburbs. The president appointed Turkish construction firm Polimeks to carry out the demolition of the arch and the construction of the new monument. The removal of Niyazov's golden statue was completed on 26 August 2010, although it then became part of the new Monument to Neutrality. The statue no longer rotates, but the viewing platform is usually open for visitors still. There are elevators inside the "legs" of the monument.

The Presidential Park is located in the southern outskirts of the city, next to 10-Anniversary of Prosperity avenue and Archabil avenue. Its territory occupies 140 hectares, which is almost half of all the Ashgabat green open space.

Independence Park is best known for its monuments located in its territory. Moving along the main alley with five-headed eagles-fountains and statues of national heroes, (quite imposing) you will go up by a wide marble stairs to the Independence Monument.

This 118-m column, topped by a crescent moon with five stars, symbolizes the unity of five Turkmen tribes. The lower part of the monument is made in the form of a huge yurt, which houses the Museum of Independence inside it.

It’s amazing to me, as we drive around Ashgabat, the strange shapes of tall buildings standing out against a sea of average. It’s just odd. I keep saying that but, it’s some sort of strange utopia gone wrong.

We then visited the 400 kilo flag which is the largest in Turkmenistan. It’s not the tallest, that prize goes to Tajikistan whose 540 feet garners a Guinness world record. It is impressive but most countries that I visit have very large versions of their own flag to show their pride. This one shows the Turkmen pride.

Now of to the National Museum of History. There were no pics unless you pay 50,000 manat. This museum has a strange exhibit but…it is a strange land. The first exhibit is one dedicated to the president. It showcases photos of the president in his many hobbies and as a role model. He’s shown, with his horse, with school children, with his car, with his boat…you get the picture. From there we shown a select few exhibits, skipping some of the ones that I would have been interested in. Only exhibits on the earliest inhabitants and some rugs were shown to us. The remainder of the museum was off limits. We were constantly watched and it was a bit uncomfortable. Whatever…the history was interesting.

We left and were on our way to Nissa, the archeological site. Off to one side I saw a large structure shaped like a clock. This structure was maybe 8-10 stories tall. I finally asked what it was and the response was shocking. It was an ferris wheel, enclosed, and air conditioned. What???!!! Yes, that’s right. I’ve never seen anything like this. I asked if we could ride it…no. I asked if it was popular with the locals…he said that no one really uses it. This, obviously very expensive attractions, was not getting any use. This seemed to be the theme of Ashgabat.

Nissa was an ancient city, located near modern-day Bagir village and is described by some as the first seat of central government of the Parthians. It is traditionally assumed to be founded by Arsaces I (reigned c. 250 BC–211 BC), and was reputedly the royal necropolis of the Parthian kings, although it has not been established that the fortress at Nisa was either a royal residence or a mausoleum.Spiritual Mosque - largest in Central Asia

Excavations at Nisa have revealed substantial buildings, mausoleums and shrines, many inscribed documents, and a looted treasury. Many Hellenistic art works have been uncovered, as well as a large number of ivory rhytons, the outer rims (coins) decorated with Iranian subjects or classical mythological scenes.

Nisa was later renamed Mithradatkirt ("fortress of Mithradates") by Mithridates I of Parthia (reigned c. 171 BC–138 BC).

Nisa was totally destroyed by an earthquake, which occurred during the first decade BC. It is among the Unesco World Heritage Sites.

It was interesting but light on content. We had seen much better - Merv. The white buildings of Ashgabat was quite a site, in the distance.

We returned to the city and back to the hotel. Our last night. I had been barely making around today and thus chose to skip the dinner with everyone. I wanted to but was miserable. I only hoped to be able to travel home, the next day.

I stayed and chatted with Michael and learned more about each other. He’s a great guy and a great travel companion. He had become sick from a meal that he had today and was trying to get rid of the offending food.

Outside, the sun was setting on my final day in Turkmenistan and Central Asia. The sky was filled with color and provided a great end of the day.

When the others returned from dinner, I went down to say good bye to Elena, Yanko, Fernando, Tess, and Judy even though Tess and Judy will be among 7 of us going to the airport. I set my alarm to be prepared to leave by 5:30am.

I was really ready to be out of this hotel. The music was loud again and didn’t stop until the 10:40 time agiain…long after I wanted to be asleep. The reception had promised that the partying was only the previous night…they lied.

I tried to sleep anyway.