Haiti - Day 3

April 8, 2019

I was up late last night but this time not due to loud music. I watched the Bourne identity which I hadn’t seen in many years and then I watched Aquaman for my second time now. This view and left me with a consistent feeling that the first 1/3 of the movie is a disconnect from the rest, from a writing, acting, and direction

I felt much better this morning and got up feeling refreshed. A quick cold shower and a protein drink prepared me for a short breakfast before finding my guide.. I have some paella and guava along with peanut butter and some local preserves on bread.

Micheal was in the courtyard when I walked out and in about 30 minutes we were on our way. We stopped at several ATMs but they were all out of order. He said it wasn’t a problem and that we could get cash when we return. I asked him if he was sure as I’ve certainly been in the position of not being able to get cash from an ATM, at all. I did not want that to be the case again and I owe money that I can’t come up with.

It was a busy day in the city and I wasn’t quite prepared for a high percentage of motorcycles and scooters that are used for transportation here. It must be 75 to 80% of motorcycles and scooters. As they are much smaller and more nimble this creates chaos as they’re all overtaking you constantly. I would not want to be a driver in this mess. Our driver was constantly yelling different words out the window at the inconsiderate drivers.

We snakes through some back streets of the town to what is a fruit market but it seems to me that it’s more of a everything you need kind of market. Yes there are fruit there but there’s also soap and ties and belts and sheets and clothes. It’s a dirt path and there are tent or umbrella stands on the side with the different vendor selling their wares. It looks rough but that’s by western standards. Honestly it was pretty well organized and easy to navigate.

At the end of the market the path open to a river. No I was wondering what was it that would happen now but kind of already knew… We had to cross the river with no bridge. I guess I was wondering because at that moment no one was trying to cross it quickly I saw a stalled vehicle on my left. The driver put the transmission in low gear and we proceeded to decline the banks and begin our crossing. The water was pretty high on the vehicle, a Nissan Pathfinder, but there was not even a hesitation. It just went through it. I was quite amazed by this. I know he’s been through this many times, obviously, but if this is something that’s what utilities can consistently do then I see the desire at least in many parts of the world. There were also some scooters attempting to cross… Don’t know what they were thinking. I never saw any actually being successful but they have to cross ,right?

Now we begin the ascent into the mountains above Jacmel. We were on a dirt and rock path of modest grades for the most part. The driver was actually complaining that the roads were bad. I have been on many bad roads around the world and I’ll have to say that these are certainly not the worst.My friend Naitro and I have driven the road from hell in Costa Rica and it still stands as one of the worst roads I’ve ever been on.

Along the way there were many crops being grown. There was corn, and beans, and bananas, papaya, guava, and various other vegetables. I found it interesting that many of the banana plants had flowering vines growing on them. I can’t say that I’ve seen that before.

We made a brief stop at a clearing near and outcropping that provided a panoramic view of the valley and beach area that is Jacmel. It was breathtaking. I took a small video and then stood there and did my best to be present and absorb all that was in front of me. It’s these moments that bring the most from travel. Becoming one with the nature around you, one of my favorite things.

A few more villages pass us bye and soon we are at a stopping point there are a lot of guys hanging out in a clearing. This was the entrance to Bassin Bleu.

We got out and many of the guys walked over to us. One introduced himself as a guide and the rest seem to just be staring at me. Still not getting used to that. I was asked if I wanted to get some water before we left but that never actually transpired. I walked into a small building, no lighting nothing new here, but a book to sign with who I am and why am there. My glasses on I fill it in.

At this point I was asked for $10 for entry into the area. I turned to Micheal as he knew Ihad no cash on me and he spoke to them about it being paid for later.

Hey skinny guy with a big toothy smile name Sean was our guide to the waterfall.The path through the woods and up and down a ravine area wasn’t very difficult. It was a nice workout but certainly most would find this moderate at worst. There were several streams to cross, one by wood plank, and the other two stepping across stones. Was the last crossing but that was where we take our shoes off and weighed up to about our knees. We left our shoes at this last point as we were almost there.

Where we left her shoes, we used a rope to repel down to the rocky river banks below. It wasn’t very dramatic but it was still fun. Was very similar to the situation at Machu picchu and even though it was just about a 20’ drop, it was exciting.

From here we crossed in an out of the streams that came off of the waterfall to end up at a corner where at some point a consistent deluge of water carved a canyon.

Now it was time to take shirt and pants off and get ready for some fun

Micheal held my phone and took some pictures while I jumped into the first pool and swim to a very large rock in the center of the rivers path. The water was cool but not cold. It was just right… Relaxing.

Standing on the rock with Sean, he spotted a Chamaeleon. Well sort of like 1 million. It change colors like a Chamaeleon but they told me that it was very dangerous and it’s a fight would result in medical attention being necessary. John picked up a couple of rocks but the Chamaeleon seem to stay it’s distance.

From here I got some instruction. Sean jumped into the pool, swim across to the waterfall, and then climbed up three different levels to get to an outcropping that was about 75 feet off the water. I wasn’t sure how I was going to accomplish this….with glasses on. Sharon returned to the rock after his jump and swimming to the rock. I assessed how I was going to be able to repeat this with the glasses. In the end I jumped in and then Sean handed me my glasses. I swim around the pool and then over to the waterfall I climbed up to the first level where I feel comfortable but my concern for the glasses prevented me from climbing higher and jumping.

If I had contacts it would be different but the risk of losing my glasses was too great. I’m very happy that I was able to do what I did. I still had a great time. I stood there at that first level and let the water hit me on my head and on my back and tried to release built-up stress within me. I raise my arms up and try am and Sean took a picture.

I enjoy the water for a bit longer and then swim back to the rock. What amazing experience this had been and worth the great expense that this would cost. Everything seem to require a guide and a tip and an entrance fee and a tip and, honestly, it was becoming a bit much.

On our return we stopped briefly for a bottle of water in a clearing. We stopped at a lower pool where the horses come to drink and the people of the mountains coming to wash their clothes. The water didn’t look very clean but I’m certain that it’s cleaner than dirty clothes.

Back at the entrance, Sean decided to ride into town on his motorcycle so that he could collect his tip along with the entrance fee.

The crossing of the river was equally as dramatic as the first time. But this time I did take a video for all to see.

We made an attempt at three banks and no one had a working ATM. The last bank they said they were working on the ATM and that would be 10 minutes. Now I don’t really believe that it would be 10 minutes so I asked if we could come back to the hotel. I thought that maybe the hotel manager a charge my credit card for the amount that I/O. It seems he wasn’t very amenable to that.

I got my passport and we went back to the bank where the ATM was being repaired. It seems the ATM had in fact been repaired and I was able to withdraw money. Unexpectedly dollars was not an option. They surprise me as in many countries in the Caribbean and then in other unusual places such as the Middle East and Russia dollars are an option to withdraw. Anyway, I determined how many Haitian gourds I should take out to satisfy my bill. I owed $60 for my round-trip to the driver, $20 tip to my guy, $10 entrance fee at the waterfall, and $10 tip to the guide for the waterfall. This was a very expensive $100 for something that should’ve cost about half of that. Again I enjoyed what I had done and the logistics were challenging so I have to pay what is being asked, now don’t you. Actually the waterfall guide was not happy with the $10 tip that I gave him but I told him to get over it and that I was not playing this game. There had been no structured list of pricing for me to assess. This is a tip and just as that implies it is at the discretion of person tipping as to what that amount would be. He was trying to tell me I should pay him $20. That was not happening.

To make this short became complex just getting changed so that everybody got their appropriate amount. Michael did go back to the bank and get change so that he could be distributed to everyone. This was quite the crazy thing and I have been much easier if I just been able to take out $10 as everyone was quoting me in dollars… Whatever.

I came inside for a quick change and then off to find something to eat. I was really hungry. My usual Koze Cafe was closed...ugh! I really enjoy that place and would recommend it to anyone traveling here. The pricing is good and the quality of food and drink is outstanding.

I returned to the hotel and Micheal was still in the courtyard. I asked him about a recommendation he had offered previously. He had mentioned a place called Chantal and I thought I would give it a try.

I walked down to the beach and tried to follow his directions but I wasn’t quite finding it. Franz found me… I say that because I have no doubt he Sommy and headed my direction looking for… Something. He started his usual talking that lead to nothing that led to him asking for some money. He said that he had made a drawing of the rooster that I had seen two days ago as I thought it was very colorful and interesting. Whether or not he actually made a drawing to bring to me I don’t know. He asked if I could give him the money for A motorcycle taxi from the mountains as it takes very long otherwise. Sometimes it’s easier just to help someone out and believe the best. I gave him 100 gourds which was less than two dollars for his motorcycle taxi into town tomorrow morning.

I happen to mention where I was going and he told me I was going the wrong way. He now offered to take me… Oh boy. We walked back to the waterfront and continued to the Promenade Center and then continue past. I asked him if he was sure if this was the direction as this was in total opposition to everything that Micheal had said. I have to say that I was concerned as to what I was getting myself into because I have not been this far down the beach due to people following me or trying to sell me things. I took a little leap of faith and he did show me the way to Chantal.

Chantal is a collection of plastic chairs and simple tables with 10 structure over two sections. It’s behind a cement wall at the beach and that’s about it. He asked that I buy him a beer. This is getting to be a bit much but for less than a dollar I could get him out of my hair. Are usually just brush off people like this but something kept me wanting to help him. I don’t know why

It took about 30 minutes but the lady brought me a plate that had lettuce some tomato, some cucumber, and fried plantains. No I’ve had fried plan teens many times before and they have been really hard, really dry, really hard and really dry, just not very good. I kept an open mind and to my surprise they were actually very tasty the combination of the acidity in the tomato with the plan teen was fantastic. The plan teens were moist and flavorful. She also brought me a bowl of rice and beans. Now I never know what I’m going to get in regards to rice and beans. Given that I’m a vegetarian I don’t want any chicken or beef stock used in the making of such a dish. To my pleasant surprise it was a very simple red beans and rice recipe with just a few spices. It was actually perfect for me. What a great meal and in a very unexpected place. It was a hole in the wall and as we all know some of the best food to be had can come out of such a place. One negative was that this guy pulled up a chair right across from where I was sitting and proceeded to just stare at me. He wasn’t having a drink and he wasn’t having something to eat he was just sitting there and frequently I would look up and he would be staring at me. Eventually he did leave and I was able to finish my meal in peace.

I walked back to the hotel, only being approached by someone seeking...Well I don’t know what he was seeking but I was just over this consistent harassment.

I took the opportunity to walk the different floors of the house as I haven’t really done that in previous days. I discovered much art throughout the hotel and different vantage points for interesting pictures. It’s really very beautiful in the decay that is not only the hotel but the area surrounding it.