Istanbul/Ethiopia/Azerbaijan Day 4

February 28, 2016

After getting to bed so very late (1:30ish), I was unable to sleep. I awakened with the brightness of the sun peaking around my sleep mask around 6am. I tried to sleep until me 8:30 alarm but got up at 7:30 - why not. Now you know this is very odd.

I was hungry as I never had dinner. I had no water left end the town was too far so...parched to say the least. I answered a few email, hand washed a few clothes and prepared to take a shower. No hot water! Ugh...really. I can handle it, if I have to. I've taken many as even having water was a luxury but...there was a water heater, I could see it. It was turned off.

I had to eat! I was a bit "hangry"! So, I dressed in yesterday's dirty clothes, out in my Chile cap, and went to reception ( no phones - no problem ). They said if they couldn't fix it I could shower in another room.

Seated out in the deck with the most place to have breakfast, I ordered like a starving man. I had pancakes with mango, banana, and local honey. Then I had scrambled eggs with veggies. A bottle of Coke and a large bottle of was was in order. I drank all 1.6 L of water, all of it. I was as hungry and thirsty as I thought.

Fed, it was time for a shower. Water heater fixed, I had a fantastically long hot shower. By the time I was ready to go, the guide was here and ready for me.

This morning we visited Ashetam Maryam.

Set at 3150m, atop Abune Yosef mountain, the local priests believe they’re ‘closer to heaven

and God’ here , and it’s easy to see why. The monastery’s construction is believed to span

Lalibel's and Na’akuto La’ab’s reign ; some even claim King Na’akuto La’ab lies buried n the chapel.

Church treasures include parchment and some icons. Although the architecture here compares pretty poorly with Lalibela, it’s the stunning mountain scenery you really come for. The two-hour climb (one way) is quite steep. Many travelled a ride mules (Birr200), though you’ll still

need to walk in places.

They returned me to the lodge for lunch. The guide asked that I go ahead and pay the drive rand then told me that it was 700 Birr ($32). I asked again as that was a lot of money. He had driven up and down the mountain and would be driving us to the lower churches...but wow!

I had a thick lentil soup and the couscous with veggies. It was a lot of food but I needed it. I needed to make up for too little food yesterday.

The afternoon would begin with a wedding, my guide invited me to join him a wedding of people that he knows. There were 4000 people attending. There was a huge white text that you could see for miles away.

The music and singing were the first indications of the event as we pulled up. Then the long line and dancing. The bride and groom were making their way to the tent. We had gotten there just in time. Everyone was very friendly and many were speaking to me...practicing their English. As we moved further into the tent, we gave an offering to the couple and joined in with the festivities. People were dancing, jumping up and down, and clapping. A lady made a little give up her seat for me. I tried to tell her that I wanted to stand but she insisted. I sat there for a few minutes but when the bride and groom were available for pics...I had to go take one. On my way I ran into a family friend - also a musician with a special Ethiopian string instrument.

On the way out several guys were talking all over each other trying to use their English. One even wanted my email.

Off we went to visit the other rock churches of Lalibela -

Bet Amanuel -

Freestanding and monolithic , Bet Amanuel is Lalibela’s most finely carved church. Some have suggested it was the royal family’s private chapel. It perfectly replicates the style of Aksumite buildings, with its projecting and recessed walls mimicking alternating layers of wood and stone

seen at places like Yemrehanna Kristos.

The most striking feature of the interior is the double Aksumite frieze atop the nave. Although not accessible, there’s a staircase to an upper gallery. In the southwest corner, a hole in the

floor leads to a subterranean tunnel that connects the church to Bet Merkorios. The chambers in the walls are the graves of pilgrims who requested to be buried here.

It reminded me of a little Petra, not the treasury but the city area. It was very impressive.

Then, Bet Abba Libanos is hewn into a rock face and is unique among Lallibela's churches in that it’s a hypogeous church. In English, that means only the roof and floor remain attached to the strata. Like Bet Amanuel, many of its architectural features, such as the friezes, are Aksumite. Curiously, although it looks large from the outside, the interior is actually very small. The carved corners of its cubic capitals are unique; some guides say they may represent angel eyes. Legend says it was constructed in a single night by Lalibela’s wife, Meskel Kebra, with a little help from angels.

Bet Merkorios -

Reached via a series of trenches and tunnels (one is 150 metersllong, narrow and pitch-black). The ceiling is low and you must always be reaching to the ceiling and the walls while also being careful of your footing as outcropping safe there too. It starts from Bet GabrielRufael, this church may have started as something altogether different. The discovery of ankle shackles among other objects as led scholars to believe it may have served as the town’s prison, or house of justice.Due to a large section of it collapsing, the interior is a fraction of its former size and the brick walls are an unfortunate necessity. Don’t miss the beautiful fresco (maybe 15th century) sometimes said to represent the Three Wise Men; but since they’re holding crosses, this can’t be correct. It's amazing that they still exist with the age and light that shine directly on then. It is very hard to see them and even with color correction, barely visible. Thus is such a shame for this treasure. With their little flipper hands and eyes that look askance, they’re delightful. The 12 Apostles are represented below in a less attractive and probably later fresco. The Passion of the Christ painting on cotton fabric next to the frescos probably dates from the 16th century. Formerly, such paintings were plastered to the church walls with a mixture of straw, ox blood and mud.

We left the museum area and walked along their version of the Jordan River and down the hill to the town. The driver didn't return and it seemed that he wouldn't for the rest of the day.

At the bottom of the hill is a circle with a few cafe and arts and crafts shops. The guide stopped for a coffee while I took a look. They had traditional cloth coverings used for rituals and also for keeping the sun off the skin. Umbrellas are also used to keep the sun at bay, but only by women.

I found an example of the Bet St. George with a pilgrim outside - perfect for my collection. I'm glad I waited. Also there were many crossed of the wooden kind and the traditional metal crosses of the many villages religious figures. It was hard to choose but I decided on the metal cross of Lalibela. It's history and beauty make it special to me.

I went across to the cafe and sat with my guide while he had a coffee. After, time for some money. I needed around 5500 birr and the machine only allows 4000 per day. I would have to come back, tomorrow.

We continued our walk and stopped at the art shop of his friend but he was not there and it was locked. I told him not to worry and I might stop by tomorrow. Continuing our walk, he showed me another art shop that I could stop at, also.

With no driver, we walked the rest of the walk across the hills to Sora Lodge. He stopped to show me the foundation of the small guesthouse the he is building ( 7 rooms and a small restaurant). He is laying as he goes with no bank loan. It will take him a year but I'm impressed that this is possible here as I couldn't afford to do so in my own country.

I paid him and he left me as I took a rest in the room. I wrote a bit and chatted on Facebook, then Skyped with my brother, Kirk, until time to go to bed. It was another 1:30 night for me.

It had been a good day. Nothing beats St. George but it's all great to see.

The time had already proven to be very conducive to thoughts about my life, what is important, and what needs to change. I have many thoughts during my journeys but this time, I wanted to come back and profoundly make changes.

Thank you Lalibela, for providing the place to think and then also to quiet my mind. I needed both.