Moldova Day 2

November 25, 2016 Moldova

I was up until almost 2am! I set my alarm for 8 hours of sleep but was tired but awake at about 6 hours. The grocery store wasn't open yet so I had a pro bar, some water, and watched some tv.

I was ready by 10am and headed over...just across a major street. It was a very large store so everything I needed and even some famous Moldovan wine.

I returned, had some yogurt, and assessed what to do. The thick fog of last night hadn't changed...foggy, foggy day. There was no sun at all. I was unsure about driving to see anything and maybe I should have a museum day but...I decided to risk it and head out.

I set the GPS, very difficult with a tiny screen, for Orhei Vechi

This territory has been inhabited since early times. In this place many cities were built, the first was called Orhei. The name means “fortification”. Then at the beginning of the 14th century, the Golden Horde conquered this territory. The name of the archaeological reservation derives from the name of that medieval city, thus "Old Orhei".

The museum complex Old Orhei is historical monuments and natural landscapes that consists of a few promontories. The central promontory in Old Orhei is called Pestere. Its name derives from the many caves carved in it ('Pestere' is Romanian for 'caves'). The Butuceni headland is part of the Old Orhei as well. Together with the Pestere promontory it creates a complex harmony from every point of view. The Butuceni promontory is great from both geological and aesthetic points of view. It has many calcareous slates, spacious caves and small grottos. The wonderful view and ancient traces are impressive.

Old Orhei is famous for the cave monasteries located there. This zone was ideal for the primary monasticism of early Christian community. It was isolated from the outer world. At the time when Christians came here, there were been smaller and bigger caves cut by pre-historic tribes living on this territory. At Old Orhei there are several monumental stone constructions which are of interest to both scientists and ordinary people. The oldest fortified construction at Old Orhei is the Gaetic fortress located on the Butuceni promontory, connected by a narrow passage. In case of attack, it was easy to block access which made it ideal for building a fortress.

The trek to the monastery was a rough one. Getting out of town was ok, crazy traffic or I should say crazy drivers and people running across the street everywhere.

North of the city, the highway breaks off and here is where it got tricky. The GPS told me to go straight and the exit for Orhei was right. I decided to go GPS...crossing my fingers. The road was rough but as I live in a state with terrible winters that damages the road constantly, I was just fine. Most of the way the road was communist straight. It just cut through whatever was there. Once off the highway, the back roads were a different beast. A four wheel drive would have been a good choice. First I had 20 km of dirt road in the middle of nowhere, then a turn and another 14 km. I would have thought I was very lost had I not been presented with a highway quality sign overhead where the two dirt roads connect,..seriously.

The land was wide rolling hills with enough flatlands in between to farm and there is farming everywhere.

I passed through two villages, along the way. The life was simple but the people were friendly. The children all waved at me and smiled.

In one village, there was a beautiful Orthodox Church, very beautiful for the small village. I saw several shrines? or memory markers? Or just spots to worship beside the road. I saw them in Bulgaria and Romania. They were very intricate and detailed, pieces of art.

Finally reaching a point where the river parts the hills and I could see the monastery. There was much fog but the remoteness added to the drama of the promontory, river, bell tower, and golden domed church.

I twisted my way around and crossed the river and parked. It was a hiking journey from here.

I hiked along a ridge that widened as I reached the bell tower and wider at the church, I went to the church first, the shop was closed but the church was open, thankfully. The frescoes were amazing as they always are in Eastern Europe. They were colorful and rich with stories. I had it all to myself.

I walked along the ridge back to the bell tower and a stone cross with a backdrop of curving river and farmland...wow!

I was alone in this amazing place of great spirituality, so remote, and with wide sweeping views of the land. Being here was so peaceful, I forgot my troubles, for a few minutes. They were lifted from my shoulders.

All good things...

I took a different path / road back to civilization. I saw a Chisinau sign and took that road and didn't listen to the GPS. I saved myself almost 30 minutes. Traffic was busy but it was Friday night and the sun was setting,

I found the hotel quite easy...yay! A quick bathroom break and a snack and I was ready for the next

I decided to go to the Gallery L. It has many articles written about the art shown. It's from many artists from Moldova and all is for sale, it was easy to find, two blocks over and 8 down. I arrived to find it closed. What was 6pm on the internet turns out to be 4pm on the door. I will return.

The light was fading and cold reaching my bones, I would make one more try. I decided that I didn't have enough time for the Ethnographic Museum so, I asked to Cathedral Park.

Cathedral Park was just a few blocks down and the same, over but now it was rush-hour Friday night and people were everywhere, it was nice to see this as it had been a but too quiet so far.

I had the last light of the day at Cathedral Park. I approached and saw Chişinău's own Arc de Triomphe which dates from the 1840s and marks the centre of the city. It was built to commemorate the victory of the Russian army over the Ottoman Empire. It had a Moldovan Flag hanging in the center and waving with the wind.

The crown Jewel of the park and Chisinau and the park is "Nativity of the Lord" Metropolitan Cathedral and the belfry in front. It was built in 1836 at the initiative of the governor of New Russia. It is one of the best examples of Russian architecture in Chisinau. The city’s urban plan that was laid in 1817 was the first to display the Cathedral’s location and its basic architecture in the cruciform plan.

Considering the importance of the structure, great care was taken for building to appear elegant, regal, and timeless. A master was chosen who could create neoclassic style of architecture, the Cathedral that stands today boasts an eclectic style, with a combination of Byzantine touched with a hint of Renaissance on a Greek cross, a perfect neoclassic structure. Inside it has three altars dedicated to three saints. The cathedral suffered serious damage during World War II and has since undergone several reconstructions.

Directly in front of the cathedral stands a beautiful belfry built in 1998, an exact replica of the original belfry built in 1830 when Cathedral was built. The original belfry was demolished in the 1960's. It represents an important religious and historic sight and comprises four levels with a small chapel on the ground level and several bells at the top.

The light was still in my favor and I left as dark was falling. I decided not to try the other museum as I had been told that it wasn't a good idea to be on the streets after dark and...it was now dark.

I walked Strada Bucheresti back, briefly stopping to snap photos of some amazing street art. One is one artist's creative perspective of Chisinau. One was a large dove of peace with a bull inside of it??? The third was more doves on one side and a gathering of people with the Flag of Moldova on the other. They were works of art and thought provoking,

I returned and after Nikita helped me, via Viber, with the cooktop controls, I made dinner, pasta with veggies and some Moldovan wine. I chose a merlot rose.

The day worked out well, even with the weather, I do hope for better weather tomorrow.