North - Mtn temple, grand waterfalls, and Niko

Asia Fall Trip 2019

October 4, 2019

I slept really badly…don’t know why this keeps happening. As LaTrice wen’t to sleep crazy early, she had been up since 2:30am. I finally forced myself out of bed about 7:45.

I was nice having breakfast foods in the apartment so we could take our time. Restless sleep hasn’t been making for fresh mornings.

I’d messaged the host about setting up a driver for some additional sightseeing if the weather was good. As it was a gloriously sunny day…adventure awaited. I messaged confirming and we got ready for our day.

I went downstairs and the front desk guy seemed confused about my asking for the driver. I don’t know why there was confusion but he started making calls. He briefly hung up and was frustrated that he wasn’t able to find someone now. I reminded him that I’d messaged the night before and showed him that on my phone. He continued. Soon, we had our driver (same as our driver from the airport). I confirmed the Phnom Kulen, 1000 linden something, and the waterfalls. The cost explained to me the night before was $60 for each and now he was saying $75 each. It was on a chart of tour prices so I think someone just read the wrong line.

We stopped briefly to get cash and buy our entrance into the park where the falls are. I ended up with a $100 US note…grrrr.

We headed north for a 1.5 hour drive into the mountains of Kulen. The way was filled with lush green mountain peaks and wide valleys and meadows.

We were on a bit of a time crunch as the mountain road was one way. In the morning and until 12, it was up, and after 12 it was down only.

Traveling the road, it was definitely wider than a one lane but it would have made passing difficult but not impossible. Anyway, we made good time and up the mountain without any passing attempts.

Preah Ang Thom was our first stop. The driver stopped at the end of a road with a clearing. There were many vendors selling souvenirs, food, and clothing. It was obvious that this was really not a foreign tourist draw and that locals were spending the day here.

We had to go the the restroom and a 1000 rial cost for a filthy outhouse. LaTrice refused to use it but I had to go. There was a hole in the floor and a trough of water next to it There was a large bucket to be used to…flush. Wow..I’ve used many facilities around the world and the trough of water was a new one.

Experience at Preah And Thom

We stopped briefly to see the 1000 lingams but the water was too high. There has been a stone area in the river where 1000 penises have been carved. It's supposed to bring good luck and fertility to people who visit.

On to the waterfalls...

The driver let us off in an area that look like locals were picnicking. It was a wooded area and it was quite a busy day. We could hear the water but we’re quite uncertain of which direction to go. We chose one and continued forward to see many people heading in a direction. That should be yet we suspected. Soon we could see a torrent of water rushing to our left. Upon approach it was what we would later find out to be the upper Falls. The water had such great force in coming out and across the rocks above that the projection was quite spectacular. Able to walk out on a pretty level surface to experience the wall of water behind us.

As we could see the water continue to drop we thought… There has to be more. We came back to the bank and continued our walk to find that now we could climb down to what must be a lower level and potentially something much more dramatic. We were certainly rewarded with a much wider wall of water and a substantial drop. This was simply incredible. With the rainy season having just passed the volume of water was enough to cover the full width and at a tremendous rate of flow. If you was incredible… You can see every drop and the sound even though loud was very common. What is setting of vibrant greens to Rich greens and the pounding of the cool clear water… What a sight and sound to behold.

Took our time to take in it’s great force of nature and allow it to provide us with a moment of peace and serenity.

From the days activity and the heat and humidity, we decided to return - no additional temple. We were both very happy with the day’s experience,

Upon the return to town we still needed to pay the driver but only had large bills. The local tribe made change for us and we paid the driver $85.

I was so Concerned with getting into Vietnam to get Latrice bag and check in for emirates

Reading up on it - concerned About Vietjet not allowing boarding and I was so stressed out.

Went online and paid for super rush approval letter 65$

Told Latrice. She talks to the two guys next door and they were telling her we could check bags all the way through, no way! I made my thoughts known but we wait.

Hungry and salivating at the thought, Cafe 9 was calling. I had a repeat of my previous meal of zucchini sweet potato cheddar bread and vegan chocolate walnut cake. Omg...it was heavenly.

I was so concerned that we needed to have a new approval letter that I went Online again and Bought Latrice an approval letter - $95 as it was now after 4pm. I had to do it.

We headed out onto the streets of Siem Reap to the find the artisan village. I’d read that this is where many Khmer traditional crafts were still being performed and goods sold . We weaved in and out of the alleys and on to the Main Street to a bustling thoroughfare. There wasn’t much street light but there colorful markets with balls of light string across the street made for a fantasy land all its own. Down to dark alleys and finally reaching our destination, the artisan market had closed 30 minutes earlier, even though we had arrived 15 minutes before the stated time on the website. Ugh!

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Walked back through night market and pub street. The balls of light extended on a mesh above

, across the street. LaTrice make a purchase of some earrings for gifts and was tempted by some leather goods. There was a posh shop along the Main Street with beautiful shawls from Kashmir and elephants made from dark wood and adorned with silver detail. The presentation was nice but we’d seen the same type of items at the night market.

All the way to the closed artisan market and though the shops in town, I’d been thinking about a open store front near our apartment. There was a lady at a desk working. She was painting. I’d seen Buddha heads and seated Buddhas with his legs folded. They were in a rainbow Of colors but all Buddha. I’m not drawn to such objects but kept thinking about her actually working, it’s not often that you come across someone working in an art shop. People are usually reading or surfing the net. I wanted to go back and see what was it ghat she was actually doing.

Upon entering, her presentation was quite spectacular. The colors she’s chosen to use and even the pairings in the displays. The story goes, she buys local Khmer wood. Some of the wood is light, from the outer part of the tree, and some of the wood is dark, from the center part of the tree. She curves the heads and sands them smooth. This process can take up to 8-9 hours per head. She paints Buddha’s helmet only. Her color palette is modern but earthy...respecting the wood. After hearing her story and appreciating how much of herself that she puts into her art, I was drawn to them and now I was conflicted. Her color choices were amazing and I saw beauty in most of them. I narrowed down to two light colored ones, one with a rich blue-gray helmet and one that had been white-washed and then the helmet painted in a high gloss white. The contrast was striking and the gray streaks which made it look imperfect, were the most beautiful part. LaTrice was just as taken with them. I chose the white and she chose a dark with mustard yellow and a dark with green. We were giddy with excitement. Passion is contagious.

At Amanda’s - printed out approval letters and felt a bit better about our chances of leaving Cambodia and also entering Vietnam, tomorrow. I hope we’re ok.

LaTrice was very tired and fell asleep quickly while I worked on editing pictures and wrote a bit about our day.

What a great day. We experienced nature, local pilgrimage, great food, and inspiring art. Who could ask for more.