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UZBEKISTAN SEPT 23 2015

  • Writer: Brian Belmont
    Brian Belmont
  • May 25, 2020
  • 5 min read

Updated: Jun 22, 2020

September 23, 2015

Up early after a long night and being up late to try and write a bit and upload a few pics...no go. :-(


Up at 7am for an 8am departure. It was just enough time to for final packing and a very quick breakfast,

It would be 5 hours drive to Bukhara with a stop before with some sights.


I tried to write part of the previous eve's adventure but it was very difficult as the road was so bad that my iPad accelerometer was going crazy due to the constant shaking and impacts. I persevered.

We stopped for am ancient caravan site and across the way a underground water source. It was one of many places that travelers and merchants would stop along the way on the Silk Road.


We continued on.

Entering Bukhara, we stopped at a local restaurant where we were served a flaky crusty, tasty bread. Most had beef or lamb cooked on an large open grill that is cooked when ordered. I had tomatoes with cucumber and the bread. 9000 som with tip $2.


Back in the bus, our first destination was Chor-Bakr. Memorial complex has developed in the place of the prospective burial place of Abu-Bakr-Said who has died in 360 year by Muslim Calendar (970-971 A.D.) - one of the four of Abu-Bakrs (Chor-Bakr) - descendants of the Prophet Muhammad. At the tomb "sacred" appeared the necropolis of family tombs, constructed court yards enclosed with walls.

It is a place of great peace and tranquility, there is little color, mostly the unadorned bricks, they say that Samarkand is a beauty with her makeup and Bukhara is a beauty without make up. I guess I will find out soon.


On to Bakhouddin Naqshbandi -

The Memorial Complex of Khoja Bakhouddin Naqshbandi is one of the most important Muslim shrines. Every self-respecting Muslim knows and reveres this name. The great theologian of the XIV century, founder of the Sufi Order "Naqshbandia" was buried 12 km from Bukhara in his native village of Kasri Orifon. Some time ago there was the pagan temple of the site of current tomb of Naqshbandi.

Naqshbandi was the spiritual teacher of Amir Temur and made hajj to Mekka 32 times. He appealed people to be modest and rejected the luxury. His philosophy was based on the principle: "Dil ba joru, dast ba kor" ("The heart - with the God, hands at work").


The main building of the complex is the khanqah. Before the frontal of the mosque there is the minaret and small madrassah. To the west from dahma, in separate courtyard there is the large necropolis, where Naqshbandi is buried. Graves of his mother and his teacher - Said Mir Kulol, are situated not far from his grave.

The Mausoleum of Saint Bakhouddin Naqshbandi is considered as the Central Asian Mekka. Believers from different muslim countries come here to ask for the fulfilment of wishes and healing.


And last for the day, the summer palace of Bukhara Emir's Sitorai - Moki-Kesha

In the mid-XIX century Emir of Bukhara Nasrullah Khan decided to build a new country seat for himself. To choose the coolest place not to suffer from summer heat, the architects made recourse to an old method - dressed muttons were put on the potential sites of construction. The place, where the meat got spoiled last, was chosen for the construction of the suburban pearl of Bukhara. Unfortunately, this palace did not survive to the present day.


Several decades later, another emir of Bukhara Mir Sayyd Muhammad Alim Khan initiated the construction of a new palace there. A legend has it that, Emir devoted the palace to his wife Sitora. The construction work which lasted several years resulted in the residence of unprecedented beauty. The Bukhara architects having trained in Russia managed to combine oriental and western styles in their creation. After a while the Emir’s wife died, and her name was given to the palace. It was named Sitorai Mokhi-Khosa, translated from Tajik as “Star, like the Moon”, and this name was preserved to this day. Unfortunately, the Sitorai Mokhi-Khosa also shared the fate of the first palace – it was destroyed.


The extant Sitorai Mokhi-Khosa Palace was built in 1912-1918, by order of the last Emir of Bukhara Mir Sayyd Muhammad Alim Khan. The construction involved the best Bukhara masters of the time, along with two Russian engineers Margulis and Sakovitch.


Everything is in a state of decay but you can see where it was once grand. The sunroom in the back looks like a Russian Tea Room I visited in Halsinki, Finland.there were many peacocks and a few who liked having their picture taken, a few vines with grapes grew overhead in the corridor between the house and the pond, it was a beautiful place and and sad at the same time .

So,,,it turns out that the markets are closed now, as we leave for our hotel. Tomorrow is a holiday and it's not certain as to what we will find. We all have a wad of Uzbek cash on us!


Closed inside as the next day is holiday, Eid al-Adha, an Islamic festival to commemorate the willingness of Abrahams willingness to sacrifice his own son to God. The purchase of an animal known as udhiya, usually a goat or sheep, to sacrifice. Oh no...their "special day".


Checked in to Unesco World Heritage Site - Amelia Inn. It's charming as the walls are decoratively plastered and painted like a palace but not in a tacky way..


After connecting to the Internet and seeing that my Facebook post from last nights drama hadn't posted, I went in search of a better signal and the potential of showing the world what we had done,

I found a stairway that lead to a rooftop deck with a view of the city. It was mostly tin rooftops but I could see the sun setting and that was nice,


I finished my blog for the day and after an hour of trying, I gave up on Facebook and went back to the room. Michael, Jerry, and Reina were going to dinner. By the time we met at reception, Fatima and Fernando were there. Gulnara tried to offer unsolicited recommendations, I am never directed where to eat and didn't want it then, Jerry had found a place that sounded perfect for all. She was pushy and everyone seemed to be allowing her direction. I decided to see where it went and decide what I wanted to do from there.


We stopped at her first recommendation and there was little for me to eat, let alone want to eat. The second was Old Bukhara Restaurant. By now, we had run into Yankow and he was joining us. He had found some souvenir shops and bought a few things. He said that they would be open tomorrow.

Old Bukhara looked ok and there was a special of pumpkin dumplings. I gave in and hoped for the best. We pushed two tables together and sat. Soon, Elena joined after her massage. We ordered. We had good conversation and the atmosphere was pleasant but a bit chilly.


About 30 minutes later, Tess and Judy joined, the gang was alł there. It was a nice evening...relaxing.


Elena, Yankow, Michael, and I all paid up and returned to get some rest / down time. They rest would follow soon.


The day had worn me down or really the bus ride and the guide had. The bus ride was punishing and the guide, although knowledgeable, was not a pleasant person. I think she was self serving and not doing things in our best interest, that's it!


Good night and a better day tomorrow.

 
 
 

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